In Women on Women, a book about female photographers, photographing female models, Turbeville states, "there is the gnawing feeling that something is wrong. Often feeling shy or turned away from society herself, Deborah Turbeville sought to reflect these emotions in her work.
Starting in the 1970s, fashion used the “sex sells” notion widely in its imagery, a theme that is alive and well today, but Turbeville refused these conventions, avoiding the stereotypical depictions of glamour. Her photographs almost look like classical paintings, but with a very strong fashion perspective and an eerie air about them. But while I absolutely adore Newton and Bourdin’s work, the male gaze is clear, whereas Turbeville’s work is soft and far less sexualized.
(Alongside Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin). Turbeville’s work is sometimes described as brooding, and she is credited for helping bring an edge to fashion photography previously absent in commercial work. Here in NYC, being as stormy as it is on this day of spring rites, the mood Turbeville captures in her photos from the 1960s until her death in 2013 seemed fitting to explore.
The models in Turbeville’s work are portrayed idle, lounging around, appearing to be in lamentation or sorrow. But within the photographs, the soft underside of femininity shows through, similar to the way a reluctant spring pushes through after winter. Her imagery often takes place indoors, or even when outside, the photographs express a somewhat isolated sentiment. Being in quarantine on May Day (Beltane), made me think of Deborah Turbeville’s photographs.
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